Let this Cold Process Soap recipe sweep you away to a winter wonderland of swirling snowdrifts! You'll use two soap-making techniques to make this frosty flurry soap; layering the first two colours, as well as the 'in the pot swirl' technique for the textured top.
Ingredients (per batch):
- ¼ Palm Free Pre-Mixed Oils Pouch
- 66g Sodium Hydroxide
- 20g/ml Drifting Away Fragrance Oil
- ½ teaspoon Titanium Dioxide Powder
- 10g Blue Lagoon Mica
- Flexible Loaf Mould - Tall Mini
- Isopropyl Alcohol and Spritzer Set
- 165g Distilled Water
All your regular Cold Process Soap making safety gear equipment including Goggles and Gloves
2 x Individual Jugs, one for each colour
Digital scales – Flat bed that takes small jugs
Small beaker to hold the fragrance - Helpful, not essential
Small beakers/cups to hydrate powdered colours
1 teaspoon for measuring
1 spoon or spatula to create the shape of the valleys in each layer of soap
Note: Both colour addition amounts are added in the liquid dispersed state, not powders.
SOAP PORTIONS: ~350g per jug x 2 = ~700g
Jug 1 Base Layer - this is the lightest colour – has just Titanium Dioxide added
Jug 2 Middle Layer - this is the mid blue shade colour
Once these two colours are poured into the mould, the remaining 250g soap is combined (See Step by Step instructions below)
FRAGRANCE: Add 10g to each of the jugs
Disperse: 1 teaspoon Blue Lagoon Mica dispersed in 1 teaspoons oil (taken from the pre-mixed pouch)
Disperse: ½ teaspoon Titanium Dioxide Powder in 1 teaspoon of oil or water (or use pre-dispersed)
Overview of Three layers:
- FIRST POUR: Add all of the Titanium Dioxide dispersed in liquid to 350g traced soap - you pour only 250g into the mould.
- SECOND POUR: Add all of the Blue Lagoon mica dispersed in liquid to 350g traced soap – you pour only 200g for the second layer.
- THIRD POUR: Scrape the remaining blue soap into the jug with the remainder of the whitened soap and very slightly move the soap around – this is an “In the Pot Swirl”. It barely needs moving depending on the thickness of the traced soap.
If you are a beginner, we recommend you make a few batches before attempting this soap so that you know what to expect. For how to make soap from Scratch, please see our Cold Process Soapmaking Instructions. You can also watch Soap Queen's You Tube Series on Cold Process Soapmaking.
Divide the soap: Place 1 jug onto the scales and tare to zero. Pour 350g of traced soap into the pouring jug.
Repeat for the second jug. Add the dispersed Blue Lagoon Mica to one jug and stir well to combine.
Now add the dispersed Titanium Dioxide to the second jug and stir well to combine.
Add 10g fragrance or essential oils to each jug and hand stir to combine well.
Place the mould onto the scales and tare. Now pour 250g of whitened base into the base of the mould.
Tap the mould gently on the bench to even the layer.
Place the mould back on the scales and tare. Now pour 200g of blue soap
over the back of a spatula or spoon as shown on top of the base layer.
Remove the mould from scales and tap down on the bench to level out.
Scrape the remaining blue soap into the white soap jug and adjust slightly to swirl in the jug.
Now pour this last layer over the spatula again. If it is a little thin, allow it to sit in the mould before attempting to texturise the top.
Use the spatula or a spoon to create texture on the top of the soap. Spray with Isopropyl Alcohol to help alleviate any soda ash forming.
Cover and insulate as usual, and leave in the mould a week or so.
Remove from mould (use the freezer if the soap is very soft still) and slice and cure for 6 weeks as usual.
|Yields:||4 x 6 Bars|
|Palm Oil Free:||Yes|