This yummy summery soap is Palm Oil Free and smells delish! The Silicone Column Mould makes an easy job of using the ying-yang divider technique, and then unmoulding this Cold Process Soap log.
What you need:
- 100g Apricot Kernel Oil
- 300g Coconut Oil
- 200g Macadamia Oil
- 350g Rice Bran Oil
- 50g Cocoa Butter
- 360g Distilled Water (you'll need to purchase this from your local supermarket)
- 144g Sodium Hydroxide (lye)
- 20g (4 teaspoons) Sodium Lactate Plus
- 50g/ml Strawberry Kiwi Fragrance
- ½ Teaspoon Brites for CP Green Liquid
- 20 drops Deep Seagreen Liquid Pigment Dispersion
- ¼ teaspoon Brites for CP Pink
- ½ teaspoon Carmine Red Liquid Pigment Dispersion
- a smidge of Royal Purple Liquid Pigment Dispersion - Optional (Use if you want to add some extra depth to the pink colour)
- Flexible Column Mould
- One of your own favourite moulds for left over soap
- All your regular Cold Process Soap making equipment including Safety Gear including Goggles and Gloves
- Mini mixer or milk frother for mixing colours - optional
- Two jugs, each to hold around 600g traced soap and still take the stick blender
- Small cups for the colour mixing
Remove 5ml (1 teaspoon) Rice Bran Oil from the allocation and mix ½ teaspoon Fluro Green Pigment Powder into the oil and stir to remove any dry particles.
Have the Deep Seagreen Liquid Disperison ready with the other colours.
Mix ¼ teaspoon Brites for CP Pink with ½ teaspoon Carmine Liquid Pigment Dispersion - if you want a little more depth of colour, add some Royal Purple Liquid Dispersion (This batch used 8 drops).
Cut a piece of rigid cardboard to fit snugly into the mould - leaving at least 5cm to protrude out the top of the mould and reaching across the diameter of the mould.
If you are a beginner, we recommend you make a few batches before attempting this soap due to the hot gel. For how to make soap from Scratch, please see our Cold Process Soapmaking Instructions. You can also watch Soap Queen's You Tube Series on Cold Process Soapmaking.
Prepare the soap as usual, don't forget to add the Sodium Lactate Plus to the lye water just prior to pouring, then divide into the two jugs and mix the colourants in well with a mini mixer or spatula. You can use more or less colour if you want to change the intensity.
- Oops! Don't beat in air like I did! Divide the thinly traced soap into two even portions, and then add colour to each jug. Use a mini mixer to mix colour through well and adjust with more pigment if required.
- I slightly over colour these colours as they will settle and pull back after curing.
- Add half of the fragrance to each jug and mix through - don't increase trace as you still require light to medium trace.
- Once you have the depth of colour you want and fragrance is in, sit the mould securely in front of you, with the cardboard sitting in the centre of the mould.
- Taking a jug of soap in each hand, simultaneously pour the two colours, one on either side of the cardboard divider. Fill to 1 - 2 cm from the top of the mould.
- Now firmly grip the seal of the column mould with your non dominant hand, and then grasp the cardboard with your dominant hand.
- Twist, and lift (at the same time) the cardboard as shown above to create the ying-yang swirl. The aim is to twist 180° or just over so you create the pattern. In the finished soap you can see the beginning and end of the soap "twist pattern".
- Place the cardboard on a paper, and then top up the mould with some of the left over soap, hand swirl if desired.
- Gel and unmould as usual
- When cut, you will reveal the lovely hidden design
- Cure as usual
- Pour the left over soap into the spare moulds - you can swirl it, layer it or pour plain colours - don't waste it!
|Palm Oil Free:||Yes|
|Yields:||10 - 14 bars|